One Revolution at a time

Chris Waddell is a man of no small reputation. In 1988 a ski accident left him paralyzed from the waist down and just a year after was back on the slopes with a mono ski. He has spent 11 years on the US Disabled Ski Team and brought in a record 12 medals over four games. He has made the impossible possible, the unreachable reachable...you get the idea.


Next March he plans to be the first paraplegic to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro through using a 4-wheel handcycle powered entirely by his arms. Let's just say the guy is ripped. You can stay updated on the climb through his blog. Check out the clip of him training.

Here is what Chris has to say about the goal to climb:

"One revolution means so many things to me. One revolution of the handcycle, one revolution of the earth, one lifetime, one moment, one chance to make a difference... I hope my climb will make us see some of the 21+ million disabled people in the world in a whole new way."


Backcountry.com wishes you the best of luck Chris and we will chat with our bike peeps to get some sweet cranks for your handcycle. In case you were wondering, you can join the Chris Waddell fan club on Facebook.

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Steve Su and Pete Takeda go to Pakistan

This past fall Backcountry.com sponsored a trip by Steve Su and Pete Takeda to attempt peak 6890 in the Karakorum of Pakistan. For Steve, this was a year of major climbing accomplishments, including one day ascents of Supercanaleta on Fitzroy, the Frendo Spur, and the North Face of the Eiger. If you haven't heard of Steve it's because he's a normal guy living in Boulder raising a family and working as a computer programmer. But when he ties into a rope, watch out- he's virtually unstoppable. Plenty of people you have heard of can't keep up with him. Pete's no slouch either. Enough spray about Steve- here's the story...

Upon arriving to base camp summer like conditions gave way to fall. Temps were no longer warm enough to melt new snowfall and the mountains were starting to show their winter coats. We would have 20 or so days of fickle weather with on and off snow showers before a significant weather window arrived.

The mountain we chose to climb is peak 6890 in the Karakorum mountains of Pakistan, approximately 70 miles west of K2. This is a seldom visited area compared to the peaks along the Baltoro glacier. Peak 6890 is majestic peak with a steep rocky south face crowned with Peruvian-like snow flutings.

There is no easy route up this peak. The route we chose was the prominent south ridge. By quick observation it is an inviting line until you follow it to the summit slope where the ridge abuts a huge ice cliff. It is the kind of thing that you would never know if it was passable or worth passing due to objective hazards until you where standing right there. After some debate, we decided we would throw ourselves at it with 5-6 days worth of supplies.

The Climbing
Day one on the route started off with climbing a 1500 ft couloir which takes us to a 1000 ft rock wall.

This was the first big obstacle of the route. Much of the lower wall was slabby and sparse on features. We should have guessed this due to all the water streak marks covering the wall. By the end of the day and into the night we were half way up the wall. With no place to set up a tent, we each chopped a ledge to sleep on and called it good for our first night out.

The next day we topped out on the rock wall
and were now on the south ridge. It was a relief to be on easier terrain again, 60 degree snow slopes. However, on the third day the snowy ridge gave way to the next big obstacle, a 2000 foot section of exposed rock.

While scoping out the route previously, we predicted that this would be the most difficult part of the climb. The climbing proved to be fairly complicated, mixed, off-width, aid and finger crack climbing all in the opening pitch. The 3rd and 4th days brought intermittent snow squalls and slowed progress.

We only managed 1000 feet of climbing during these two days and were forced to another open bivy. This time the bivy was not so pleasant with the wind swirling snow into our faces.

By the fifth day time was running out and we still had a ways to go. We kept cracking away at the technical terrain but were just not fast enough.

At this point, we finished up a section called the black fin
where the ridge narrows down so that you can just about straddle the ridge giving you a feeling of really hanging it out there. By this time it was dark and cold, and the terrain was more convoluted. I lead out in hopes of finding a bivy spot but hit a dead end and had to retrace my pitch. It probably took several hours before we could find a reasonable place to bivy.

Pete meanwhile was going numb from the cold while belaying me and could not wait several hours more for me to climb the next pitch. There was nowhere to bivy except down. This meant that the climb was over.

We couldn't reclimb the technical terrain again with our limited supplies. We had climbed about 4500 feet and still had another 3500 feet to the summit. And that’s how the cookie crumbled.

Steve Su

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200 lbs of Clothes 20,300 feet of Mountain - Part 2

Part 2 of Connie Garretts climb of Kyajo Ri in Nepal. As part of her trip she delivered over 200 lbs of gear to the Sherpa Climbing School that she rounded up from blog readers and locals in Bozeman.

...continued from part 1

Within a few days of leaving Namche we arrived in Gokyo, stopping along the way in Machherma where we got our first view of Kyajo Ri. Gokyo is a lake-side village pretty much at the end of this branch of the Khumbu highway. Continuing north, the trail becomes very faint and ultimately ends at the Gyazumba Glacier and Cho Oyu. The Ngozumba Glacier, the longest glacier in Nepal, separates Gokyo from anything but view to the west. Gokyo has some of the most breathtaking views of this region. Cho Oyu is north, the Everest stream of mountains is the to the west, including Pumori, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar and to the east is Gokyo Ri and Renjo La (pass). Our team crossed Renjo La and continued south back towards Namche on a trail less traveled. In Thame, a 2-day trek from Gokyo, we headed toward Mende and back north again into the 14,800-foot valley that would be our base camp for Kyajo Ri.

Kyajo Ri stands 20,300 feet and is considered a trekking peak in Nepal. Trekking peaks are defined by height, not by technical difficulty. Climbing Kyajo Ri from Mende is the least technical route with about 10-12 pitches of snow and ice for the last 1000 feet. From base camp there are two steep boulder ascents. The first boulder ascent brings climbers to a lake valley before the second boulder ascent. Each boulder ascent is about 1500 feet. Camp 1 was established at the top of the second boulder ascent at 17,300 feet. From Camp 1, our team established a high camp at 18,500 feet. Kyajo Ri can be climbed from Camp 1 in a long 15-20 hour push. The climb from Camp 1 to High Camp crosses the Kyajo Glacier and ascends another boulder field. Our team set up fixed ropes, which are completely unnecessary. At approximately 18,700 feet a col is reached. From there teams may elect to rope up for safety. Accomplished climbers can easily simu-climb from the col until at least 19,700 feet. Our team elected to belay from this point. Approximately 10-12 pitches from the col will bring climbers to the narrow snow-covered summit.

Plagued with head colds, tonsillitis, and an assortment of ailments, our team waited an extra two days in base camp. This was just long enough for the weather to change from t-shirts and knickers to long underwear and down suits. We found ourselves grossly unprepared for sub-zero temperatures in every way possible. The snow was too hard for pickets and too soft for ice screws. On summit day we treaded forward in the wee hours of the morning, waiting for the sunrise in hopes of warming the ambient air temperature. Pitch after pitch demanded intense anchor placement and each anchor became more and more difficult to build as the snow hardened with the westerly bitter cold wind. At 19,700-ft we found our feet frozen and our enthusiasm dwindling. With the summit just 600-ft above and completely within view it tears at something deep inside your core to turn around; a bitter defeat as the mountain wins again.

Even defeat on a mountain can be success overall through the lessons learned, experiences gained, or charity provided. In Nepal technical climbing gear is a much needed commodity as the porters only make about $10 per day and are not able to work year-round. One gore-tex jacket will cost a month’s salary for a Nepali. Those interested in continuing to donate technical clothing should contact one of the organizations above.

As for this mountaineer, it’s time to start planning for the next climb—Denali, spring 2008.

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200 lbs of Clothes 20,300 feet of Mountain - Part 1

This Adventure Report comes from Connie Garrett of Bozeman, Montana who last month set off to climb Kyajo Ri in Nepal and who along the way delivered over 200 lbs of gear to the Sherpa Climbing School that she rounded up from blog readers and locals in Bozeman.

Butterflies held a field dance in my stomach as I boarded the flight from Bozeman for the Khumbu in Nepal with 200 lbs of donated winter clothes shoveled into 4 duffel sacs. By the time I return from climbing there would be ice in Hyalite, snow on the ground, and leafless trees echoing in the winter wind.

Our climb of Kyajo Ri became a vehicle for delivering much needed technical clothing for Nepali high altitude workers. It all started as an easy way to distribute a few unwanted jackets from my closet and turned into a clothing drive resulting in 200 lbs of technical winter gear. Items were received from as far away as Edmonton, Alberta in Canada and as close as my closet, ranging in techno-colored gear from the 80’s to items featured in last year’s catalogues. All of the donated clothing was distributed to the Khumbu Climbing School, Porters Progress, and Inter-Mountain Explorer’s Connection.

Our plan was to climb Kyajo Ri, just a day’s jaunt from Namche to the north. For acclimatization, scenery, and a taste of the Khumbu our team circumnavigated the mountain before trekking into base camp. The Khumbu highway has two main branches from Lukla—one to Everest Base Camp and the other to Gokyo. They split in Kyahgjuma where trekkers have their pick of the many varieties of Pringles and enough tea to fill your bladder for days. Street vendors sell jewelry items, yak bells, knitted socks, and other trinkets. These street vendors are savvy, selling part time in Nepal and then charging to Aspen, Colorado for the ski season. All of the villages are reached only by foot and an occasional helicopter. Porters carry large loads of supplies, including meat, plastic lawn chairs, tables, and vending goods. One porter may carry as much as one and half times his weight. Female porters abound, often carrying farming goods between towns, such as a basket of potatoes. Life is simple in the Khumbu.

Trekking in Nepal is a journey in itself. Trekkers seldom carry over 15 pounds. There are tea houses within 20 minute walks of each other. Maps of the area show distances measured as time, not miles or kilometers. Majestic mountain views are in every direction, including famous peaks like Everest, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu, with some of the best views being the unknown peaks such as Thamserku, Kongde, and Teng Ragi Tau. Trekkers will find themselves at 10,000 feet with mountains twice as high surrounding them in all directions. There are prayer flags, monasteries, stupas, and prayer stones throughout the entire region setting the path on which direction to walk—to the right around prayer stones to build up merit.

After trekking a few days from Lukla, we arrived in Namche’s amphitheatre hamlet for a rest day and some sight seeing in nearby Khumbjung. Namche is picturesque with views stretching seemingly as far as Lukla. The ridge above brings towering views of Everest and Ama Dablam. In the “square” Tibetan traders set up shop after traveling over a week to the market to sell brand name knock-off’s of tennis shoes, puffy jackets, blankets, and the sort. In Namche climbers and trekkers can pick up last minute supplies from toilet paper to technical climbing gear and everything in between. Namche tea houses offer laundry, showers, and hot meals. There is a post office and I can attest that postcards mailed from Namche arrive in the United States about 3 weeks later..... (to be continued on Wednesday)

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Water Bottle Solutions for Winter

I've sworn off of Camelbak style hydration systems for winter use. It's a combination of a few things but primarily it's the issue with freezing up. Just about every pack company is now copying what BCA (Backcountry Access) first did with the zip in the shoulder strap for a hydration tube. The goal - to end freezing up. But regardless of what you do I've had these hoses freeze up time and time again.

I've tested nearly all the packs out there, they all suck at this. Most of the shoulder strap sleeves use little to no insulation and expect your body heat to keep it from freezing. Sure, if I were in HAWAII perhaps it wouldn't freeze. Otherwise, you might as well just leave the thing unzipped.

Trust me, I know all the "tricks". But I didn't buy a pack to learn tricks. Save that for Halloween. Yes, I've tried blowing the water back into the bladder but ice still has a tendency to form in the bite valve rendering it useless. I've even skinned/climbed peaks with the end of the hose tucked into the neck of my jacket which yielded better results but that's a pain.

Tips

Two methods I employ to keep water from freezing while in the backcountry during the winter are:

1. Platypus - I've long been a fan of the Platypus water "bottles" since they are flexible while full and when empty they take up little to space I think they are near to ideal. I'll often skin with one in the large chest/vent pocket of my soft shell jacket or in an inside pocket of my outer shell jacket. It's easy to get to without much trouble and keeps from freezing while inside my jacket. When it's gone, just roll it up and it's non-existent. The one draw back is the opening is small so should you forget to keep it in a jacket under the coldest of cold temps the opening could freeze easily. A ski tip is a simple way to punch it open though - much easier than a stupid bite valve.
   


2. Insulator - When it's super cold out and I want to use a Nalgene bottle I'll use it with an Outdoor Research Water Bottle Insulator rather than just toss it in my pack. It's a very light weight foam insulation sleeve with a zip top and Velcro on the sides to attache over any waist strap or other location on your pack. As you can see in the image of me from last week skinning up Mount Timpanogus in Utah, I had the bottle insullator on the side of the pack's waist belt. (it's red) Temps were in the upper teens with a fierce wind. The water didn't even think about freezing up.

Winter Water Bottle Test

While at summitpost.org I saw this community member submitted test on water bottles for cold temps. It's a pretty interesting read with predictable results. It found that the thermos from GSI (this one happend to have an REI logo on it) performed best. I've not used a thermos to hold cold water as my methods have served me well but unless you're vigilant of your water while in the backcountry this winter, the chances are good that you may consider a thermos for more than rum enhanced hot coccoa.

What's worked for you? Is there a certain method that you use to keep water from freezing while in the backcountry during winter? Let the community know by commenting below.

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Climbing Kyajo Ri in the Khumbu Region of Nepal

This blog post comes from Connie Garrett of Bozeman, Montana. You may remember Connie from a previous post about the clothing drive she has put together to benefit the Khumbu Climbing School. Connie is a Backcountry.com customer who we've teamed up with to help support as she heads to Nepal this October.

Nestled along the line of magnificent peaks of the Khumbu Himal region, Kyajo Ri rises 20,290 feet from the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east. Just 26 days and 10,990 feet of climbing will bring our team to the sharp defined summit just about on Halloween!

Reaching base camp is most of the adventure. Beginning in Lukla, Nepal, our team will nearly circumnavigate Kyajo Ri before beginning essentially a 4-day climb. Beginning by trekking into the hills of Namche Bazar where a rest day hike brings us to Khumjung, 12,600 ft, for a view of Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam. From here our team climbs passes and sweeps into valleys as we make our way from Machhermo around to Mende and a faint yak trail that leads the way to base camp. Only one additional camp will be established on the mountain at 17,500 before our ascent to the summit. On summit day we cross the Kyajo glacier to a talus and easy rock section leading to the southwest ridge at 18,700 feet. Here we climb 10 pitches of steep snow and ice to the sharp narrow wedge of snow at the summit. Our decent follows the ascent by way of rappel, down climbing, and lowering.

After a few photos it'll be all downhill from there. Once I return to the U.S. I'll be writing a trip report about the climb and will also report on the clothing drive. Thanks to everyone for your donations and well wishes.

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If you're interested in donating some clothing be sure to get in touch with Connie this week. Her information can be found on the Clothing Drive Post

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Destination: Hispar Glacier in Pakistan’s Karakorum Himalaya

Backcountry.com is stoked to help support customers Steve Su and Pete Takeda on their climbing expedition to Pakistan's Karakorum. This is the first update of a few we expect to hear from them.

September 3, 2007

Steve “CM” Su and I (Pete Takeda) depart Denver, bound for Islamabad via London. Our final destination is the Hispar Glacier in Pakistan’s Karakorum Himalaya. The area – due west of K2, and the famous Baltoro area - has many aesthetic peaks , many of which are unclimbed. We are leaving fairly late in the season to take advantage of colder temperatures and stable post-monsoon conditions – better we hope, for peaks in the 6000 to 7000 meter range.

September 4 – 6, 2007

We arrive in Islamabad 48 hours later. On the calendar its taken three days, with an overnight flight delay due to an engine malfunction on Heathrow’s tarmac . It seems that two of our bags have come up missing so its an extra day in Islamabad, capitol of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan. The city has the usual sights, sounds, and smells of a busy South Asian city. Though our guide Nafeez insists that the current political and social climate is fine, he suggests we, “stay and relax” in our room at the Regent Hotel while he, “arranges everything.” We notice that our van dropped us off at the entrance of the hotel, inching with stealth through a crowded parking lot and minimizing our public exposure. At night we see a US Consulate warning on the news. Frankly, I do not feel any feel any more concerned about my security than in any big city in the States.

September 7, 2007

We wait on our baggage. The British Airways desk asks if we can’t wait until Monday – three days from now for our bags. It’s ridiculous. The plan us to leave tomorrow for a 17 hour drive north, up the Karakorum Highway to Gligit. Then it will be a shorter drive the following day to Hunza and the trailhead at Hispar village. A four day hike should put us in Base Camp. But first we need our bags.

Oh the possibilities...see anything you'd like to climb?

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High Altitude Ski Expeditions...Yes, Happening Now

It was another warm one today. Temps here in Utah are pushing the upper 80's once again while inside the Backcountry.com warehouse it's at least a sweaty 93+ where skis and snowboards that are piling up in anticipation of your winter adventures are feeling the heat. With more skis coming in right now out numbering those that are headed out the door it's clear skiing isn't on the brain for the majority of you.

But for a few skiing is entirely on the brain. My friend Tim is one. I just received an instant message from him. He's been skiing in Argentina and Chile for a couple of weeks now and today he skied 8500' on a volcano whose name I can't remember, forgotten while contemplating the enormity of skiing 8500' in one run...in September! He was stoked beyond words.

And take Fredrik Ericsson for example. After a week of lost baggage and hanging out in Kathmandu, Nepal he's now off to climb and hopefully ski Dhaulagiri. At 8168 meters (that's 26,795' for us non-metric folks) Dhaulagiri is the 7th highest peak in the world and as if that weren't challenge enough Fredrik is going to do this solo.

Would you ski this mountain?

Just 40 miles to the east of Dhaulagiri is the Gurhka massif which contains the 8th highest summit in the world - Manaslu. A strong team of three Euros Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag and Nicolas Bonnet, will not only attempt to ski Manaslu this month but they'll be looking to set a speed record while doing it. Check out the Manaslu Ski Expedition website but be sure to brush up on your German before doing so or it'll be a mostly worthless click.

So you didn't take on skiing Dhaulagiri - how about Manaslu?

On the gear side of things, a cool thing to note (at least for me) is that both of these ski expeditions are utilizing Dynafit bindings which I switched to to seasons ago and will never go back. Dynafit's are bomber and at half the weight of Fritschi Freerides they are hard to argue with.

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Using the Gear we sell on Rainier

For 36 years Jansport has been holding a climbing seminar and selects one person from Backcountry and other retailers to climb Mt. Rainier with RMI guides. Sam Bruni, our Director of Customer Solutions, was chosen to climb this year.

"I felt really good the day before the climb. I wasn't nervous at all." Bruni said. He told me that one item he wish he had was a Camelbak, contrary to the guides suggestion (2 Nalgenes). With taking breaks every 90 min. he said it was tough to stay hydrated.

His favorite gear up to Camp Muir was trekking poles and Julbo glacier glasses,

"The poles really help balance the pack weight and the glaciers up to Muir are way too bright to just take up regular sunglasses. "

When he got to Muir he felt great. He ate and rested but after a short time he felt nauseated and threw up, but no food came up. He waited for a while thinking it was heat stroke but he said it was definitely altitude sickness. The team of 14 was headed up that night to the top so he had to sit out on the summit bid this year.

For next time he plans to train at a higher alitude and will definitely bring a insulated Camelbak. A couple other hints he gave:

• Careful sitting on your back panel in the snow for a rest. Definitely line your stuff with plastic to avoid wet gear.
• If in doubt, get a disposable camera. Digital may not work and its not the time to be fiddling with techy stuff.
  
• Go with friends that have been before, unless you have the money to fork out to RMI. The guides were great and helpful, the $700 guide service is quite a bit though.
  

Good luck to those climbing Rainier this season, I will see you up there in August. For great Rainier beta, check out the official Rainier Blog by Mark Gauthier.

Be smart. Train hard. Enjoy the mountain.

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Climbing for Kids yard sale

Here ye, here ye. You are all cordially invited to the unofficial Climbing for Kids yard sale. Mark the date of May 5th on your calendar. Or you can save it in your PDA, as a fancy pants sibling of mine who makes smart comments on my blogs might do.

There will be lots of goodies for sale, including some delicious items which were ever so kindly donated by the good people of Backcountry.com. No, I won’t tell you what will be on display, you will just have to come on down and find out. As far as great deals go, let me just talk to my sales manager and see what we can do. We might be able to throw in free undercoating….. [Think Fargo]

Anyway, if you’re in the area of Hailey, Idaho on said date, stop buy and say hello. If you mention this blog I’ll let you camp in my back yard. If you donate $100 or more to Climbing for Kids you can take a shower.

All proceeds from the yard sale will go to benefit kids in need, via Climbing for Kids. The Climbing for Kids event is the annual, bread and butter fund raiser for Bay Area Wilderness Training. If you didn’t read my last post, shame on you. I am climbing Mount Whitney to raise money for this cause. So, as an ex-coworker of mine who struggles with English slang says “check it up”. This is a great cause and shall be a dandy yard sale.

The photo was taken from a predawn turn earning session up Bald Mountain. It has chair lifts, but you don’t train for Whitney by taking the lifts. Besides, lifties don’t get up early enough.

See you at the sale.

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Climbing for Kids

It was while winning the shopping cart race I bid farewell to two finger tips. So you can’t say I’ve no spirit of adventure. I like to play outside with the best of them. Snowboarding, skiing, kayaking, snow shoeing, biking (mountain and road), hiking and the like have made me happy for years. These passions are in part what drew me to settle in the beautiful mountains of Idaho. It’s just that peak bagging has not been in the repertoire in the past. So why would I start with the highest point in the lower 48 states? For the kids of course.

This June I will be climbing California’s 14,505 foot Mount Whitney. Though thousands of people climb Whitney every year, a small percentage do it via the “Mountaineer’s Route”. More importantly, fewer folks do it to raise money for at risk, urban youth.

I am participating in the Climbing for Kids event to help raise money for Bay Area Wilderness Training (BAWT). BAWT is a project of the Earth Island Institute, a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization. The goal of BAWT is to take kids who are heading down the dangerous and destructive path that urban life can foster, into the mountains to learn about respect for oneself and our world. BAWT trains counselors and lends gear from its extensive library to make these life changing backpacking trips safe and enlightening. Generous support from Backcountry.com (where I feed my gear addiction) and my friends and family are helping to make this possible.

Perhaps some readers might be thinking “I climb Mount Whitney for breakfast”. That is not the case for me, and I assume I’m not alone. Prior to volunteering to raise money I was not someone who climbed mountains. I was inspired by the cause to help some of America’s less fortunate kids. Also having just turned 30, I realized it’s never too late to fulfill a dream. The training has been arduous and exhilarating, not to mention challenging with a full time job, two dogs, a nineteen month old son and a lovely, pregnant wife who seems to want my attention as well.

Donations for this cause are greatly appreciated. If you are interested in learning more and/or donating please visit climbingforkids.org. If you would like to help me reach my fundraising goal, please click on this link. All donations go directly to BAWT and are tax deductible. I will be periodically posting my training activities and will follow up with a climb recap.

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