Friday, October 20, 2006

Free Lunch - New Climbing Route in the Wasatch

Who, other than my dad, says there's no such thing as a free lunch? Climbing legend and route pioneer Kevin Quaderer, who spends his spare time working for, has given climbers of the Wasatch Mountains in Utah just that - his instant classic route aptly named Free Lunch.

Although the grade, at 5.5 R, will likely draw scoffs from Little Cottonwood Climbers, those that attempt this line will surely agree that leaving the confines of the Cottonwood Canyons for a Free Lunch is worth the trip. After all, it is a Free Lunch.

Kevin makes the final clip of his instant classic Free Lunch
The first ascent of Free Lunch in Park City's Redstone Center
It goes up the Southeast Buttress of the Furniture store in Park City's Redstone Center and can be seen from HQ. - demanding the most out of an office location!

Kevin chalks up for his next move. HQ in the background.
Dipping for chalk during Free Lunch-------

I recently caught up with route visionary Kevin Quaderer for some beta:

BC Blog - Can you give me a little more beta on gear? .5’s? Aliens? Nuts?

Kevin: I placed a few sketchy small pieces: one BD .3, a blue TCU, and a blue alien. But the rock quality was highly suspect - I didn't really trust any of the placements to catch a fall. They were mostly to keep my belayer from worrying too much.

BC Blog - Also, was there a crux?

Kevin: It was dicey the entire way considering the rock quality. The crux was in the mind - overcoming the demons.

BC Blog - Have you ever climbed such a striking arête?

Kevin: The arête was beautiful, wild exposure and great location. Sick line, begging for a 2nd ascent!

Kevin ropes up with his trusted climbing partner and belay slave Peter looking on
Battling demons as Kevin ropes up for his first Free Lunch



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